Growing the seedlings
With the seed trays with water containers, I did not have to do anything until it was time to replant them. I lifted the seed tray out of the water container as the soil was almost too moist. I did not have to water them again for the whole period, but the seedlings were very tiny and did not need much water to grow.
But I know that is something that will change as they grow bigger and taller. In the summer and in warm weather I have to water them every day.
Transplant your seedlings into a larger pot
It has been 6 weeks since I planted the seed and now the seedling is growing out of the seed tray. The seedlings are beginning to grow and entangle with each other, so it’s best to move them to separate pots. Moving them to a larger container allows for the roots to develop a strong and healthy root system.
But the stems are very thin and delicate, so you have to be careful when lifting them from the seed tray. The leaves also have tiny hairs so they stick together almost like Velcro.
Protect the delicate roots
To protect the delicate roots you can try to transplant the seedlings together with the seed starting mix they have been growing in. I use a regular kitchen spoon to scoop out enough of the soil to not harm the tiny roots when I’m transplanting the seedlings.
Into a plastic mug
I use a regular clear plastic mug for the seedlings to grow in. A small mug for the soil and the seedlings and a larger one as an outer container. With holes in the bottom of the inner container, it’s possible to water the plant from the bottom to promote the roots to grow down to reach the water.
I noticed that the seedlings looked a bit faint and wilt a bit the first day after transplanting. But by the second day, they all looked alright again, but it can take up to a week before they pick up and begin to flourish again. Moving them with the original seeding soil will protect the roots and protect them from transplant shock.
Water and fertilize your seedlings
When the seedlings have been transplanted you should ensure that the soil is moist enough. You can also begin adding plant starter fertilizer so the plants have sufficient food when they begin to grow bigger. Without sufficient nutrition, the plant may begin to look yellow and another dose of nutrition may be needed.
You can use the same nutrition as you use when growing tomatoes. But be careful so you don’t burn the plant roots with too much fertilization. You may also get a thin and spindly looking plant with too much nutrition.
Regular plant soil
I use regular plant soil when I’m replanting the seedlings. This is the same type of soil they will be transplanted to when it’s time to move them outside at the beginning of June. But I was delayed for a day because I had the soil bag out in the barn and was frozen solid. So I had to put it beside the furnace and wait for a day until it had thawed. This was not a terrible setback, but something to make a note about if you are on a tight schedule.
As with all soil bags you buy, the soil is compact and lumpy, so you have to crush the lumps and loosen up the soil. If the soil is too compact and lumpy, the plants have a hard time developing the root system.
Adonis was first up
As I mentioned in the previous post, the Adonis seeds where the first ones to germinate. But as the weeks have passed, there is no noticeable difference between the four types I grow. They have different expected times to harvest, but hopefully, they all develop as planned.
You can still use the leaves even if they dry green, but It’s not usable for Swedish snus. My experience is that it tastes like grass and is not a very pleasant experience.
Now I have to water and care for the plants until it’s time to move them outside at the beginning of June. Until then, I have to buy pallet rims and soil enough for my 96 plants. The plan is to grow them in raised beds using the pallet rims. With raised beds, the soil gets warmer and, hopefully, will grow better and faster.
The plan is to have no more than 4 plants in each pallet rim to give them enough space. I will not use the greenhouse this season as the plants I had outside last season were doing better than the ones in the greenhouse.
The location where you grow tobacco should be sunny and protected from strong winds. A sunny location is a requisite for large plants and heavy leaves. If the location is in the shade you get spindly tall plants.
Optimum soil for tobacco cultivation is loose, well-drained, and properly fertilized. Sandy soil drains too well, is nutrient-poor, and dries out too fast. Clay soil holds too much water and is too compact. The roots are fine and unable to penetrate hard masses. But as I’m planning to buy plant-soil bags to use in the pallet rims, this should not be a problem for me.
No matter when the patch is dug, it is fertilized in the spring. Rotten horse, cow, and chicken manure contains a lot of nitrogen and is therefore recommended. Nitrogen promotes leaf growth, and the larger the leaves, the more snus for the winter. You can throw in decayed leaves and other compost if you have access to it and don’t use lime.
Part one: Planting the seeds.
Leave a comment
What’s your experience of growing tobacco? Leave a comment and let me know.
Take it easy and snus on.
Anderscomments powered by Disqus